Root competition with the mature trees, in addition to the shade, will generally prevent turfgrass from thriving. Tall fescue does have a bit of shade tolerance, but anything less than full sun (6+ hours a day in summer) can reduce vigor. Fine fescue is more tolerant of shade (it still needs around 4 hours of sun, though), but its care differs from tall fescue (for example, it's not mown nearly as often) and it doesn't handle regular foot traffic well. To be fair, most (if not all) groundcover alternatives that are happy in shade and which can tolerate the drier conditions that come with tree root competition also aren't very suitable for locations that receive regular foot traffic (from people and/or pets).

In the interim, especially since nothing can really be planted right now, you could cover bare soil or areas with no desirable plantings with wood chip mulch to prevent erosion and discourage more weeds. Depending on the layer thickness and how much decomposes between now and spring, you could either move aside what's needed to plant or clear an area, plant, and then mulch between plants if desired. As wood chip mulch decomposes it helps to add organic matter to the soil, which improves conditions for roots.

If you want a consultation for planting designs or help, you could consider hiring a Chesapeake Bay Landscape Professional. Program attendees are trained in sustainable landscaping techniques, which often includes the use of native plants (if you want to include them) and stormwater management, in case there are erosion issues contributing to poor plant retention/establishment in those areas.

Some plants may be well-suited to a gravelly soil, in which case you might not need to clear that area of the leftover stone. For example, some woodland natives that often grow in rocky habitats include Eastern Prickly Pear (Opuntia humifusa), Woodland Stonecrop (Sedum ternatum), Eastern Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis), Alumroot (Heuchera americana), and Partridgeberry (Mitchella repens). All handle dappled light well and have seasonal interest.

If convenient to reach, local Master Gardener volunteers can also help answer questions about plant selection (not through an on-site consult, but at locations where they hold plant clinics) where you can show them photos of the site.

When you are ready to do any planting, amending the soil with compost can help with loosening compacted conditions and giving transplants a head start on rooting-in. How much compost to add depends on how it's used (top-dressed over a wide area or added to each planting hole), but it doesn't need to be a huge volume to make a difference. When it comes to plant size, install the youngest/smallest size available (where practical), since they will settle-in faster and with less stress than older plants that require a much wider planting hole. If you use native plants, more nursery sources are stocking them in "plug" size, which are easy to plant and less expensive than typical nursery-sized plant pots. They will generally catch up in growth relatively quickly. This is a helpful approach when dealing with too many tree roots (or other obstacles, like buried rocks) when digging a planting hole.

Fortunately, there is a wide array of plants tolerant of a partly-shady to mostly-shady site, though some will be non-native. For example, a lawn look-alike that does not need mowing (and which can do well as long as it's not walked-on too often) and which handles dry shade well is Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon). There is a dwarf variety that only grows about 3 inches tall, and while its spread is comparatively slow, it eventually forms a lawn-like carpet that remains evergreen. Barrenwort (Epimedium) is another deciduous or evergreen (there are many species and hybrids) perennial that can thrive in dry shade, and which spreads slowly and blooms in spring. As long as any non-native plants used are not invasive, it's okay to mix native and non-native plants if the site conditions are too restrictive to accommodate more native species. There are too many possibilities overall to list, but a landscape designer or experienced local nursery person can help narrow down the choices.

Miri

You're welcome!